Aruba: Two Islands in One
Carrie hearts Aruba
If you are contemplating where to go for some fun in the sun this winter put Aruba on your radar. South of the hurricane belt, the island averages only 20 inches of rain per year, temperatures stay in the mid-80s and there is a constant breeze.
Yes, Aruba has a reputation for mass-market tourism. All-inclusive resorts line Palm Beach. Cruise ships stop here. But being a port of call means the shopping is fabulous. In the colorful 18th-century Dutch-style buildings in Oranjestad, you’ll find any designer brand you desire—Cartier, Gucci and Longchamps. There are also some great local stores, like the Cigar Emporium, where you can pick up some Cubans, and the Aruba Aloe Store, renowned for its Aruba Aloe Special Care lotion, one of the many pure aloe products that are made on the island.
But what you might not expect is the adventures you can have. Aruba is essentially two islands in one. Sugar-sand beaches flank the southern and western coasts. Because of the trade winds, wind and kite surfing are watersport staples. You can go diving at The Antilla, a 400-foot German freighter shipwreck, charter a sailboat or join one of the catamaran cruises to snorkel nearby reefs. The northern coast, where Arikok National Park covers almost 20% of the island, is a dramatic landscape of surf-beaten cliffs, rock formations and natural pools. Veering off into this desert, accessible only by four-wheel-drive vehicles, is such a stunning departure that you feel like you could be on an African safari minus the exotic animals, unless you count the wild goats roaming among the cacti.
Snorklers at a waterhole on the northern coast of Aruba
Adventures
Go off-road ABC Tours Aruba specializes in off-road adventures. You can drive your own utility vehicle in a caravan of UTVs led by a guide or join a small group, riding in the back of a four-wheel-drive jeep. Tours visit Aruba’s many sites—California Lighthouse, Donkey Sanctuary, Baby Beach—but the highlight is Arikok National Park, where you can explore the Bushiribana Gold Mill ruins and snorkel in a natural pool also known as conchi. abc-aruba.com
Ride a horse Take in Arikok National Park’s rugged scenery by saddle as you ride along the Nacho Trail to Moro Beach and the Natural Pool, stopping to climb one of Aruba’s moderate peaks before returning via a white-sand beach. www.rancholocoaruba.com/en
A mural at Papiamento restaurant
Dining
Papiamento
Chef Edward Ellis heads this charming, family-run restaurant. Tables are set around a pool and in the garden of a 126-year-old Aruban cunucu house. Lights dangle from the trees and across the palm fronds, creating a magical ambience. Papiamento is the Spanish Creole language spoken on Aruba. As the name implies, you can sample traditional Aruban cuisine here. Local mushrooms are served with a rich Muenster cheese au gratin. Keeshi Yena, a family dish of minced tenderloin, chicken, raisins, olives and cashews, is a delicious surprise. The arrival of steak, fish, rock lobster and shrimp on a sizzling stone seems celebratory. Check out the 18th-century antiques in the interior dining rooms. papiamentoaruba.com
Passions on the Beach
The setting is the star of this restaurant. With the ocean lapping up on the beach, a gentle breeze blowing, and a canopy of stars above, dining at a torch-lit table here is an enchanting experience. The menu offers plenty for everyone—seafood, ceviche, fish, steaks, salads, soups. Main courses are presented with a cloche that is dramatically removed at the table. Located on Eagle Beach at Amsterdam Manor. Book ahead to secure a reservation during sunset. amsterdammanor.com/passions-on-the-beach
Balahi beer
Sunset Drinks
It may surprise you to learn that Aruba’s award-winning local beer, Balashi, first brewed in 1998, is made with desalinated sea water (also very good drinking water that keeps this desert island hydrated). The refreshing brew has just a touch of bitterness and is perfect for the arid climate. The label sports a divi-divi tree, the island’s trademark tree, a natural compass because it always points in a southwesterly direction due to the trade winds. You will find both Balashi and divi-divi trees at Eagle Beach, one of the spots where people congregate to watch the sun dip into the Caribbean Sea. There are plenty of beach bars where you can catch the sunset and order all kinds of crazy tropical drinks (see three good ones listed here), but be sure to set aside one evening to enjoy an icy cold beer at this low-key beach, where you can really get lost in the moment. It’s a serene escape from the lively bar scene at Palm Beach.
Passions on the Beach
Buy a Balashi and wander down to the water’s edge at Eagle Beach, belly up to the thatched- roof bar, or relax in a surrounding lounge area with one of the best piña coladas on the island. amsterdammanor.com/passions-on-the-beach
Sunset Bar
This chic bar at the Hilton opens up to an al fresco lounge area. It is quite the setting for cocktailss. In the evening, the sound of the waterfalls rippling through the foliage and palm trees swaying in the breeze is complemented by a singer and keyboardist. Signature cocktail: Aruba Ariba, Bartender Juan “Jocky” Tromp created this fruity concoction of vodka, white rum, pineapple, orange and other libations in 1964.. www3.hilton.com/en/hotels/aruba/hilton-aruba-caribbean-resort-and-casino-AUAHHHH/index.html
Divi Sushi Bar & Lounge
The outdoor terrace at the lobby lounge at The Ritz-Carlton Aruba is one of the more sophisticated places to catch a gorgeous sunset. Among plenty of inventive cocktails, is the signature Cadushi made with cactus purée, Aruba's premium rum and freshly squeezed lime juice.ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/caribbean/aruba/dining/divi-bar-lounge
This is an updated version of an article originally published in Leader’s Edge Magazine in September 2018.