Key West: “To Have and Have Another”
The clever title of Philip Greene’s book, To Have and Have Another: A Hemingway Cocktail Companion, portends what you are in for: an entertaining read that muddles anecdotes of master storyteller Ernest Hemingway’s boozy life with cocktail recipes that riff on his books and favorite beverages. A bonus of reading this spirited adventure is that it conjures up images of raising a glass or two in one of the many exotic locales Hemingway called home, making you want to jump on a plane to go channel the man himself.
Two words for those for whom the idea of jetting off is not just a flight of fancy: Key West. Throw Greene’s To Have and Have Another in your bag and head to the place where Hemingway’s spirit endures: the southernmost speck of land in the U.S. Better yet, buy a copy when you arrive at Key West Island Books, where the shelves are lined with new and used books that chronicle the laid-back lifestyle and quirky characters the island is known for.
Ernest Hemingway’s home in Key West
Next stop: the Hemingway House, a Spanish colonial manse, where among his famous novels he penned his To Have and Have Not. Guides are armed with more intriguing stories about Hemingway than there are six-toed cats, descendants of his white polydactyl pet, wandering through the tropical gardens. The house and his studio are much as he left them—chock-full of his Spanish colonial antiques, travel momentos and Royal typewriter. And as it was during the 10 years he lived there with wife No. 2, there is no air conditioning, which leads to the next stop: The Green Parrot. Hemingway would no doubt have congregated with the locals at this off-Duval Street watering hole for the best live music on the island, and of course, cocktails.
Sleep
Marquesa Hotel at night
The Marquesa Hotel
>> This congregation of pastel-colored, gingerbread-trimmed, wooden buildings, including a Greek revival-style home built in 1884, is the upscale island place to stay.
>> The immaculate rooms sport West Indies touches like ceiling fans and planters chairs, but spring for a larger one or one with a terrace since they can be quite small.
>> Two pools surrounded by palm trees and tropical plants make this the ultimate oasis. www.marquesa.com
Sunset Key Guest Cottages, An Opal Collection Resort
>> Two-, three- and four-bedroom Key West-style cottages dot the private 27-acre island accessed by a 24-hour ferry.
>> WHAT YOU ARE PAYING FOR: Unimpeded views of the legendary sunset from the wrap-around porches and a gorgeous beach, a rarity.
>> Easy access to the Westin Key West Marina makes sport fishing, snorkeling and sailing a breeze. www.westinsunsetkeycottages.com
Do: Sail, Savor, See
Danger Charters sunset cruise
>> Sail on a Danger Charters skipjack to snorkel the reefs and kayak around the mangrove islands. www.dangercharters.com
>> Savor a café con leche at the Cuban Coffee Queen. Best. Coffee. Ever. www.cubancoffeequeen.com
>> See Hemingway’s Home & Museum. Budding writers will be inspired by the setting and vibe. www.hemingwayhome.com
Eat
Key lime pie at Louie’s Backyard
LOUIE’S BACKYARD: Great Views
>> WHY GO: The on-the-water views from the dining room, deck and outdoor bar; exquisite Caribbean cuisine; exceptional wine list; and breezy West Indies décor.
>> Traditional—Bahamian Conch Chowder with Bird Pepper Hot Sauce served in a terrine—and innovative dishes (Crusted Grouper with Oyster Calamari) are artfully presented.
>> Key lime pie garnished with dark and white chocolate straws is among the delectable desserts. 700 Waddell Ave., www.louiesbackyard.com
B.O.’S FISH WAGON: Fresh Fish
>> Across from the marina, a scattering of picnic tables and a tangle of rusted license mark the spot of Key West’s best fish sandwich.
>> From grouper served on Cuban bread to the conch in the fritters that come overflowing in a paper boat, everything is freshly caught in the morning and perfectly fried in the afternoon.
>> Sides include crisp homemade slaw, hand-cut fries and icy longneck beers. 801 Caroline St., www.bosfishwagon.com
SANTIAGO’S BODEGA: Artful Tapas
>> On a side street in an artsy Key West neighborhood, tasty tapas, pitchers of sangria and a nice selection of wines complement the tropical weather.
>> From a plentiful pear and avocado salad to a crusty rack of lamb to a flavorful tuna tartar, there is a delicious morsel for every palette.
>> Dine at one of the tables on the porch or inside in one of two dining rooms decorated with bold paintings (by the owner), eclectic chandeliers and touches of mosaic tiles.
207 Petronia St., www.santiagos-bodega.com/key-west/
EL SIBONEY: Best Cuban
>> Out of the way, but this authentic Cuban restaurant is more than worth the cab fare.
>> Hearty favorites like Puerco Asado (roast pork) and Ropa Vieja (shredded beef), perfectly spiced and juicy, are served with fried plantains and rice and taste like someone’s grandmother from the island cooked them.
Don’t miss: Celebrating a birthday here; the staff parade out from the kitchen, one person banging a drum to keep the beat as they sing a rousing version of Happy Birthday in Spanish. 900 Catherine St., www.elsiboneyrestaurant.com
Photo credits: To Have and Have Another, Philip Greene; Hemingway Home & Museum photos, RobONeal.com; Marquesa Hotel, Dan Forer
A version of this article by Carrie Williamson originally appeared in the April 2014 issue of Leader’s Edge Magazine and has been updated.